Culture Kitchen
Cucumber Hidden tested for us!
I tell you plainly: we do not go to Jean-Luc Tartarin to calibrate the stomach. We went there to find a style of cooking, a culinary art of balance.
And I can not tell you this only from reading the Gault Millau 2009 in which, I can Tartarin boasts three caps, or to read the Michelin star which he has since February 2009 ... but because I set went in early June of this year.
And when I write the word balance, I do not use the term 'balanced cuisine, eat five fruits and vegetables per day, no bread with the pasta, etc.. "No, the balance lies in the Harmony and the choice of garnishes, spices, and raw materials that he engaged mainly tide.
But first the context: chic and simple at the same time, the decoration that is reminiscent of the 60s is no less modern in the light of the sunshine (yes, I so lucky! It does not always rain in Le Havre ...). The metallic tones and large windows give a minimalist style to the great room, allowing everyone to focus on his plate.
For service, I personally found it a bit "light" on the part of some people on the team and in relation to the quality of delivery of the head. But maybe you already know that I am very strict on the room service which is, in my opinion, an art in its own way ...
On reading the menu, I invite you to not stop on "Lunch" or menu "flavor of the month and although they are carved with the same love that the other menus, they seem a bit short, especially when coming from Paris for lunch.
Without embarking on the dance of the 12 dishes from "The Table is a Day" (I had to return to Paris after driving without sleep ...), the tasting menu has carried my belief and that of my comrades-stop cooking. The menu at 85 € is indeed used for the table and consists of the following dishes:
The egg farmer to plate "Trompe l'oeil" on a shellfish bisque as Milk Pool, with a citrus caramel powder (I ate this entry with a certain indifference ... and yet I will not have to touch it since I do not like the taste of the egg! Nay, the alliance is sufficient to mask the taste).
Crawfish on the spit raw, heated and smoked rosemary to the same base (spectacular and delicious treats of the arsonist ... we can not help fan the smoldering rosemary to fan the flames!) Accompanied by a broth with green tea and squid ink, peas and baby chard.
Saint-Jacques à la plancha with sesame paste and bergamot (St. Jacques has colonized all the odds tables to the Vendee North ... The fact remains that this dish is delicate and tasty)
The bar, grilled on one on his skin with arugula and parmesan risotto (delicious delicacy in the preparation of the risotto and cook the fish ...)
Crispy Sweetbreads with roasted chanterelles, diced beets (the surprise of the day: The sweetbreads may not be disgusting when cooked with art: for it is here that Tartarin excels with its oven induction, there is a master of cooking ...)
Fresh and ripened
Mille feuilles vanilla (very airy and delicate while)
Of course, I'll spare you the latest in various mouths and varied (glass jars, kebabs, savory muffins, cakes etc..) And sweets ...
This suggests that the fish tail of the Partouche group (I will not repeat the painful time of the closure of "La Villa du Havre in July 2007 for financial reasons ...) gave our man the force of the twenty years he has more! The more experience and the cap under his arm, is assisted by his wife that he has bounced back in the Avenue Foch (at 73) in order to develop a creative and talented cook.
The fact remains that I was expecting a little more surprise in the chef's menu, and perhaps to the presence of a grain of folly which sadly lacking. It lacks that spark can be sparkling Tartarin ...
But if the opportunity arises, I invite you to go home. And if you have time and desire, I will tell you that the first Monday of each month, Jean-Luc Tartarin workshops "kitchen"! (From 9:00 to 12:00, followed by lunch with the head - all for 100 €).
73, Avenue Foch in Le Havre (76600)
Tel.: 02 35 45 46 20
"I am more fish tartare but your recipe is tempting me well !!..."