Culture Kitchen
The Masked Cucumber tested for us!
I tell you plainly: we do not go to Jean-Luc Tartarin to calibrate the stomach. We went there to find a style of cooking, a culinary art of balance.
And I can not tell you this only from reading the Gault Millau in 2009 in which Mr Tartarin can boast three toques, or reading the Michelin in which he has a star since February 2009 ... but because I set went in early June of this year.
And when I write the word balance, I do not use the term "balanced diet, eat five fruits and vegetables a day, no bread with the pasta, etc.. "No, the balance is in harmony and choice of side dishes, spices, and raw materials that he engaged mainly the tide.
But first part: very smart and sober at the time, the decoration is reminiscent of the 60s is no less modern in the light of a ray of sunshine (yes, yes, I so lucky! It does not always rain on ... Le Havre). The metallic tones and large windows provide a streamlined look to the great room, allowing everyone to focus on his plate.
For service, I personally found a little "light" on the part of some of the team and in relation to the quality of delivery of the head. But maybe you already know that I am very strict on the dining room service is, in my opinion, an art in its own way ...
On reading the menu, I urge you not to stop on the "Lunch" menu or "flavor of the month" though they are carved with the same love as the other menus, they seem a little short, especially when coming from Paris for lunch.
Without embarking on the medley of 12 dishes from "La Table is a Day" (I had to return to Paris later, without falling asleep at the wheel ...), the tasting menu took away my belief and that of my comrades of call processor. This menu at € 85 is indeed used for the whole table and consists of the following dishes:
The egg farm to plate "Trompe l'oeil" on a seafood bisque as "eggnog" with a citrus caramel powder (I ate this entry with a certain indifference ... and yet I should not have to touch it since I do not like the taste of the egg! Not at all, the alliance is sufficient to mask the taste).
Raw lobster on a spit, smoke and heated rosemary to same plate (spectacular and delicious delights of the arsonist ... you can not help fan the smoldering branches of rosemary to fan the flames!) Accompanied by a broth with green tea and squid ink, peas and chard seedlings.
Saint-Jacques a la plancha with sesame paste and bergamot (St. Jacques has colonized all the tables of dimensions of the North to the Vendee ... The fact remains that this dish is delicate and tasty)
The bar cooked on one side of her skin with his risotto with parmesan and arugula (a delicacy of finesse in the preparation of risotto and cooking fish ...)
Roasted crispy sweetbreads with chanterelles, diced beets (the surprise of the day: the sweetbreads may not be disgusting when cooked with art: for it is here that Tartarin excels: his oven induction, he is a master of cooking ...)
Fresh and aged cheeses
Mille feuille with vanilla (very air and very delicate)
Of course, I'll spare you the various appetizers and varied (glasses, kebabs, savory madeleines, cakes etc.). ... And sweets
It suggests that the fish tail group Partouche (I will not repeat the painful time of closure of "La Villa du Havre" in July 2007 for financial reasons ...) gave the man the strength of twenty years he has not! The more experience and the pellet under the arm is supported by his wife that he has bounced back in the Avenue Foch (to 73) in order to develop a creative and talented cooks.
The fact remains that I was expecting a bit of surprise in the chef's menu and can be as to the presence of a grain of folly which unfortunately failed. It's missing that spark sparkling Tartarin can be ...
But if the opportunity arises, I invite you to go home. And if you have time and desire, I will tell you that the first Monday of each month, Jean-Luc Tartarin organizes workshops "kitchen"! (From 9:00 to 12:00, followed by lunch with the head - all for € 100).
73 Avenue Foch in Le Havre (76600)
Tel. : 02 35 45 46 20
